trava Sapuce VII- / english version

Dolina Komanice (Boljske Grede) / Durmitor
Climbing in Durmitor National Park/Montenegro
FA: Jo Friedl, Gregor Pribernig, Marcus Groinig and Stefan Lieb 19.05.2008 (ground up onsight first ascent)Trava Sapuce.JPGTrava Sapuce

 

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picture of the wall»

Access: From Podgorica to Niksic to the the small town of Savnik which is situated south of the Durmitor mountains. From Savnik, follow for about about 2 km the road to Zabljak”, then continue following the sign “Kanjon Komarnice”. Follow the small road, at the crossing stay left. At the next crossing turn right and follow the road to the very end.

Approach to the wall: Follow the well-marked trail into the valley until you can see the section of the wall where Trava sapuce starts. (See picture ») . You have to cross the river shortly before the footpath climbs a little hill left hand side.

Descent: abseil down the route. There is always a bolt at the belays or you find slings on trees. See topo for details.

Gear: The route is almost clean with one bolt on most of the belays. If there is no bolt, you can easily improve the belays using cams or nuts. We used 2 sets of cams up to size 4, one cam size 4,5, some C3´s, nuts and some pegs. Two 60m ropes.

Description: Alpine, almost clean climbed route with some exciting (!) passages (many wide cracks) and some bittersweet and botanical sections. Those who can handle these sections may find an interesting and demanding climb up an interesting wall with good rock.
The alternative (“Friedl / Groinig”) starting left of the original route and crossing then towards the right side of the pillar is not recommended. In the 2nd pitch of this entrance variation there is a big and dangerous expanding flake while the upper part leads through friable rock.